Weekend.
We got up at 4 am on Friday in order to spend the day walking. Now, you know my Tajumulco trek was a little less than satisfying because I didn't get to summit (to care for barfing teenager), well my third go at the illustrious "Lago Trek" was also slightly unsatisfying. In order to fit in the trek and an awesome permaculture activity at Lake Atitlan, we had to skimp on both. Initially we gave the students the two options, but we sold them both so well the students were visibly pained trying to decide. So we started at Day 2 on the trek, skipping the first day. I saved 2 weenie rolls from Xela Pan for some early morning animo and pushed myself through the day. I like trekking, but I'll rarely "choose" it. Plus, this Friday morning I remembered, oh yeah dear me waking up at night for a long day of rainy walking is NOT one of your fave activities - remember that.
But of course, as we got going, it was fun. My co-leader Adelaide has become a really good friend over the last 4 years of Dragons work and working with her for the first time this fall is so awesome. We got on the bus in Xela headed to Antigua Santa Catarina Ixtahuacan (mouthful, eh?) and between my iPod and her mini speaker, rocked out on the bus which had no stereo of its own. She and I know all the words to a lot of the same songs circa 1990. So we said, Do as we say not as we do (be weird gringos), to our students and traded lines from "I Gotta Man" by Positive K on this bus at 7 am. Once we got off the bus we could only get into the village in waves on pickups, so Adelaide and I strategically waited for the 2nd truck and made music videos with the remaining students on the side of the highway. One of these days I'll get our version of "Just A Little Bit" by 50 Cent on here.
We could only complete Day 2 of the trek, which is a long and hard day for sure, because Day 3 was rained out by an impending tropical storm. It was a relief to me because I enjoy chillin' rather than hiking downhill in the mud, and because the route down is a little bandito-heavy and I was in no mood to run away from people swinging machetes. I should clarify, the lake has traditionally had some problems around back roads, and more recently trekkers were stopped by thieves wielding machetes, but the trekkers simply retreated and nothing more happened. In any case, I just enjoy avoiding danger.
On Sunday we visited the Mesoamerican Permaculture Institute (Instituto Mesoamericano de Permacultura or IMAP) in San Lucas Toliman. Our contact there is Rony, one of the founders. He's a local guy with cool hair and nice pants. He let our group camp there for free. We spent a day taking a tour of the grounds - composting toilets, banana circles, medicinal plant gardens, edible forest, a seed bank, natural building, stove projects - I learned about stuff. Then the students did some volunteer work on the grounds the next day.
Rony Lec, photo from theesperanzaproject.org
On Monday, on the other side of San Lucas Toliman, we visited the Comité Campesino del Altiplano, or Campesino Committee of the Highlands, an association founded by ex-Guerrilla fighters. In April I went there on my Rights Action delegation. They blew me away because they are amazing people who do brave and incredible work. They are so good about public education efforts, with a quick call the president himself happily invited my group for a presentation despite how busy they are. The president is a man named Leocadio who started with the CCDA as a leader almost 30 years ago as a young man. Since then he has had to leave Guatemala a couple of times in exile because of threats to he and his family. But he's back now after 3 months in exile in Canada. His compañeros said it was a short time, they are amazed he is back so soon, but that's just the type of guy he is.
Our talk was given by Elvis, who gave the talk I first heard back in April, and an amazing young woman named Lesbia. Lesbia was... incredible. Between the two of them we learned about land struggle, a law they've been fighting for these past 10 years for rural development and agrarian reform, the reality of indigenous farmers (80% are subsistence farmers, minimum wage is suposedly a whopping $7 a day in Guatemala but most people are paid $3-4 per day, and so on), and the effects of natural disasters and climate change on these marginalized communities. Lesbia spoke clearly and powerfully about human rights, dignity and the huge disparities in her country. She said, Guatemala has a lot of money (it is #2 in the world for sugar production) but the money is not for everyone, she continued, We indigenous campesinos are not "poor people" - we just don't have access to resources. When Lesbia spoke, I was heavy-hearted, I could have cried, I looked at Adelaide at one point who looked at me and we said without saying how incredible this young woman was. She spoke clearly about a massive action campesinos all over the country are planning soon because they need to be heard; in the government down in Guatemala City they are ignored completely. The CCDA is full of people who do dangerous work, say things out loud that we as Americans can say, or blog, at anytime, but they live with very real danger for their convictions.
After the talk I bought 2 lbs of their coffee called Cafe Justicia and we took Rigo - the guy from the CCDA who picked us up and took us back to IMAP - out for lunch. I liked Rigo a lot, he was a cool guy who just graduated from college in social work (social work!) He works with the CCDA as a community organizer and helps communities in disaster preparedness. He liked that my students had stickers on their water bottles that say "Deport the Migra" (from my immigration lesson, haha) and said the current president won't run again next year because he's too ashamed of all the money he's stolen from the people. Rigo was fun to talk to.
Back in Pachaj now for our final week of homestays and Spanish class. I'm going to Concepcion on Friday to arrange the next homestays and activities. I won't be back here until December. Our next adventures will be great as we head to Concepcion, then through the Ixcan. Our students will sit down with ex-Guerrilla fighters and hear their stories, visit an exhumation site where people were massacred and thrown into mass graves, hear from early founders about the Ixcan's cooperative movement, and meet their Guatemalan peers as we visit my school in Concepcion and rural schools in the Ixcan. By October 17th we'll be down in Guatemala City again to sit down with Jennifer Harbury and visit the Guatemalan Forensic Anthropology Foundation, then head south into El Salvador.
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